Figure Prototyping - Part 1
As previously mentioned I’ll be posting coverage on my own figure making using clay, silicone moulds and resin casts, and painting the final assembled model.
The first step is to purchase suitable clay. Not all clay is good for making figurines.
The rule is - the harder the better. Y2-Klay (the above) has a hardness rating of 9/10, only J88 is harder at 10/10. You can hurt your knuckles if you rap the side of a roll, and one of these rolls would quite easily qualify as a blunt object in a crime scene. Clay with a hardness of 10 is normally carved, but more about that type later on.
One of these rolls weighs 800g so it has about the same density as water.
With regard to using clay, certainly with the above clay, Chavant’sY2-Klay, you can only make large scale figures. I wouldn’t attempt making a 1/8 figure. Reason is that the clay does grain - little pieces can come off when you rub or craft it. The softness of the clay means that when you slice the surface you take quite a bit off, while a hard material, corrections would be subtle and more details can be applied. The clay when bent can develop cracks.
However I thought I would start these articles with Y2-Klay as it’s ok for prototype / rough figures or large scale figures like dollfies. Just don’t expect to get high detail or flexibility on small parts - you will be disappointed. For practise this is a good medium as it’s cheaper than the professional material which I’ll reveal later, after two case studies using this and another yellow harder clay.
As this Y2-Klay is extremely difficult to mould at room temperatures, you will need to buy either a hairdryer or a heat gun. Heat guns are a lot more expensive so a dryer with a 3 step control is the best bet.
A dryer with more speed sett ings is better as they can be too windy otherwise. 3 temperature settings are essential.
Y2-Klay is totally mouldable at 58°C. But if you try to heat up a roll of clay it will take considerable time so it’s best to slice up the roll into little chips.
Of all the knives I’ve tried for cutting clay this is the one to choose.
A thin flexible knife buckles all the time. It’s difficult to achive leverage with a long knife.
Clay builds up on the the teeth of a serated knife so a rounded short knife is no. 1.
Slices with a thickness of 3mm is ok. These you can heat up quickly. Best heat them beyond mouldable temperature - can get very hot but it will cool down slower.
Once you have sliced up a whole roll or two, place the slices in a bag and fold it up to stop the clay smell from pervading your room.
Take out what you need and start working the clay into the shape you want.
To add detail the tools above are most useful.
The top one is great for cutting. The third one’s pointy end is perfect for adding lines and indentations, and the curved side of the pointy bit is the best tool for smoothing the clay, unless you choose to use water and your fingers.
The bottom one is used to create a flat area on a shape - by swiping it across at a set height you can shave off excess clay - works well.
Next part is about planning.